This page is designed to help people who have
bought the Basic Core BattleWing and need guidance to properly
build the plane. The following steps will describe how I build
the BattleWing starting with the basic Core
BattleWing to the final "Almost Ready to Fly" BattleWing.
|
Steps |
Pictures |
| Basic Core |
 |
Remove slag.
This will take 10 to 15 minutes. |
 |
Join wing ends together
using White Gorilla Glue.
Most FOAM SAFE glue will work but don't use CA style
foam glue.
Titebond is also good but is will leave an amber glue
mark when it dries. |
 |
Cut 45 degree angle on bottom
of rear leading edge.
This will be used as part of the hinge for the ailerons. |
 |
Cut out
battery bay.
Yes, I have a template and router (Dremel) so you will
need to trace
your part (Servo, Battery, etc..) and start cutting into the foam,
little by little. You will need to pick at
it until you reach the correct depth
because you won't be able to cut sideways.
Too much work? You always can
buy an Advance Build wing from me. |
 |
Cut out
the servo bays.
The numbers on the template also incorporate the depth
of the wood which is 1/4". |
  |
Cut out ESC/receiver bay and rear
firewall section for engine mount.
ESC = (Electronic Speed Controller)
Last pictures shows a split core (bottom) and full core
(top) |
 |
Install top and bottom engine
bulk head support.
I have a small band saw that does all my 45 degree angle
cuts. |
 |
Install wood engine firewall.
Wood is 1in x 1in at 1/8" to 1/4" depth.
The wood piece is countersunk into the foam.
UPDATE: You can use Foam Safe Glue or
Hot Glue to mount the wood. |
 |
| Apply tape to engine firewall |
  |
| Install hatch for
ESC/receiver |
 |
| Install tape to over battery bay and hatch |
 |
Install tape on the bottom of
plane for skid plate.
This also helps from letting your battery taking a piece
of foam with it when it gets hit from below. It's not
good when you battery is going one direction and your
plane is going another direction. |
 |
Apply tape to front of wing's
Leading Edge (LE).
I split the tape in two.
POST BUILD UPDATE:
I've noticed on my plane that
the top edge of the tape start to peel off faster than
the bottom due to the constant flex of the wing when
banking or turning. Apply hotglue to the leading edge
before seating the tape on the wing, at least for the
top narrow section of the wing leading edge. |
 |
Place a bead of
hot glue on the top of the rear leading edge.
This will
aid in the adhesion for the tape when the ailerons are
installed. |
 |
| Build ailerons |
 |
Attach ailerons to wing.
Note the different sized in tape width.
Ref: 3rd picture.
Larger width (left side) for top of ailerons.
Smaller width (right side) for bottom of ailerons. |
 
 |
Reinforce tape
by running a small bead of hot glue along ALL edges.
Force the hot glue in to the open cells or crack by
smearing it with a knife of blade.
With out doing this the tape will
peel back and eventually come off.
Blenderm tape has the same problem.
3M spray adhesive is worse on a EPP foam that has
been cut by hotwire.
The old style of applying tape with adhesive spray does
work well on the Wild Wing only because the wing is
formed under pressure and has a skin for the tape to
adhere to. The wings cut with a hot wire, like the
BattleWing do not have this skin and therefore the tape
has less surface area to grab due to the open cells cut
by the hot wire. You must take extra step to ensure the
tape stays on during battle. |
 
 |
POST BUILD UPDATE:
I had to add a strip of tape to the bottom middle
of the wing to keep it from flexing too much during hard
turns. After a 2 months of flying the tape mounted on
the top front edge of the wing would buckle and start to
peel off even when hot glue was applied.
Last picture show the top front of the wing being bent
and the tape starting to peel off. |
 |
| Create vent
holes for ESC |
 
 |
Install outer black fins.
Update: Picture show me using Gorilla
Glue but Hot Glue (High
Temp) adheres better this section of the build. Because
the Hot Glue works so well the small reinforcement tape
was deleted from build. Last picture still shows tape
(no longer needed).
***Fins should be mounted Half above and Half below the
fin.
Do not mount fins above the wing line otherwise the wing
will not have traction at low speeds. |
 
 |
|
I sharpen my exacto a lot during a build. One blade will
last me 1-2 months before it gets to short to cut with. |
 |
Install control horns.
Any control horn will do. |
 
 |
| Cut holes of for
Velcro battery
strap |
 |
| Create
internal channel for wires from
servo bay to receiver bay |
 |
Install servos.
I use the Servo Driver to center the servo so
I don't have to connect it my transmitter.
I'm then able to place it in the wing with servo horn in
the correct position.
Cut slots for the servo tabs so the servo can go all the
way to the bottom of the servo bay. |
  
  |
| Install control wires/linkage |
 |
| Cut a channel
just below control rod so that it is flush with the
surface |
  |
|
This finished the Advance build minus the servos. |
|
Mounting the engine.
It is better to drill a pilot hole rather than user a
auger to ream a hole.
Make sure to use loctite or some kind of thread lock
liquid due to all the vibrations. |
 |
Electronic Speed Controller:
This particular speed controller does not come with a
battery connector so I have to solder on a male JST
connector. |
 |
Connecting the ESC leads to the motor.
Temporarily solder the leads to the motor leads to test
which direction the engine will spin. Here I use a servo
driver to act like my transmitter's throttle to see
which way it spins. Once satisfied I solder the
wires properly and use heat shrink tubing to cover the
exposed wires connections. |
 |
Mounting the battery connector with in the wing.
Cut the hole for the connector above the servo wire
channel. Push the connector through the servo wire hole
and use tools to force it through the small hole you
just cut. The foam will bend enough for you to get the
connection through the hole.
Use hot glue to secure the connector. |
 |
Finished product.
Now add your electronics. |
 |
| |
|
| |
|
| Removing servos
for repair |
 |
| |
|
